lundi 3 mars 2014

Sprechen Sie Berlin?



Allo!

I am currently writing this blog post from inside a McDonalds, (ou ‘Macdo’ si vous voulez sembler comme un vrai Parisien), close to my school as it is the only location nearby with free Wi-Fi. It is actually quite a lovely workspace I have created here and I think that (unfortunately) with a view of Rue Daguerre, outstanding internet connection and tables with large surface areas, I now proclaim my nook in this local Macdo my workspace of choice. 
I apologize for that tangent—I’ll blame it on the fact that it is Monday. Dreary Monday’s aside, I am particularly excited to share some stories, thoughts, perceptions and gastronomic adventures regarding my latest European trip to Berlin, Germany. I cannot exactly pinpoint why, but prior to leaving for this trip I just had a sense that I was going to absolutely love Berlin.
After a bright and early wake up this past Friday morning, we arrived in Berlin at around 9 in the morning, leaving us with a full day to explore everything that the city had to offer. From the moment we stepped foot onto the U-Bahn (metro of Berlin) I was surprised how drastically different the city seemed from Paris. Metro riders were smiling, loud and gregarious—a site unseen within the Parisian public transportation system. As I happily flashed my pearly whites at passerbys without apprehension, I also quickly noticed the size of the Berliners. I felt as if I was back at Coon’s Franklin Lodge in Arbor Vitae, Wisconsin with the entirety of the Mueller clan.  Every local seemed at least a head taller than me and I didn’t mind it one bit!
We quickly checked into our hostel and hopped back onto the U-Bahn towards Potsdamer Platz, which has been dubbed the ‘Times Square of Berlin’. Another thing I found fascinating was the language. Since English is a Germanic language, it was interesting to see how the German language consisted of words that resembled its English counterparts almost exactly and then there were words that had so many consonants—they seemed like something out of a Dr. Seuss book. 
Because we weren’t exactly navigation whizzes, we decided to go on a free three-hour walking tour of the city. The tour met in front of a Starbucks located within the Parisian Platz, which is home to the iconic Brandenburg Gate. Our Australian tour guide Stephen did an excellent job of showing us the city and giving an abbreviated yet detailed synopsis of Berlin’s rich history. On the tour we saw the Brandenburg Gate, the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe, the site of Hitler’s Former Bunker, Lutwaffe HQ, the Berlin Wall, the Former SS Headquarter, Checkpoint Charlie, the 1920s Cabaret Mile, Gendarmenmarkt, the old Royal Boulevard and the TV tower. After the tour we then walked throughout Museum Island—a section of the city surrounded by water that houses five internationally renowned museums.
We finished off the day with a trip to Dunkin Donuts, which was everything I could have ever wanted. Although I quite enjoy my café allongé  (espresso with an added cup of water) paired with a pain au chocolat—a big ol’ caramel coffee with one munchkin could not have come at a better time. I was particularly happy after this pitstop as I am rarely ever allowed to purchase one sole munchkin at the Bethelehm Dunkin Donuts. Therefore, as the gangly German man passed me my one allotted munchkin, I knew that the rest of the weekend was going to prove to be just as successful as the first day.
That evening we took advantage of the Berlin nightlife and signed up for a pub-crawl that ended at one of Europe’s most famous streets for nightclubs. The pub-crawl was an absolute riot as we ended up meeting an entourage of 25 guys from Manchester, England who were in Berlin for the weekend for a bachelor party, or as they called it, a ‘stag party for their best mate.’ Each one had a little green army man figurine, and since they had a few extra, we all received our own army man figurine. When I asked why they were carrying around these toys for the evening—one of the guys looked at me—looked to the entourage of 25 and then yelled something absolutely indecipherable. The entourage all quickly assumed the position that resembled their individual army man. Immediately realizing what was going on, I looked at my army man and hastily assumed my position, which was a lunge while pretending to fire a missile. It was a great night and after the entourage of 25 had indulged considerably, it was becoming increasingly difficult to understand them. By the last pub I knew that they were trying to speak English to me—they were speaking English to me—but through their thick Manchester accents they might as well have been speaking German.
The next day was a sharp contrast to the prior evening as we had signed up for a guided tour of the Sachsenhausen Concentration Camp. It was an absolutely unforgettable experience and I am glad that we mustered up the courage to sign up for the visit. It was particularly meaningful for one of the girls I was travelling with as her great-grandparents were both holocaust survivors. It was a very moving experience and it was fascinating to see how Germany collectively dealt with their dark history. As a whole, German residents acknowledge their past, they do not hide it, they do not justify it nor do they exploit it. For example, many of the bunkers within the concentration camp had been destroyed after the camp was liberated in 1945. Although Germany sought to preserve the camp and its historical relevance several years after its Soviet occupation, they refused to rebuild the decaying and/or destroyed buildings within the camps. They refuse to reconstruct what once served such a dark purpose.
After a quiet train ride back to Berlin, we then lifted our sprits with a trip to the East Side Gallery at dusk. The gallery is simply the Berlin Wall redefined. For about a kilometer the wall is painted, graffitied and made into a medium for artistic expression. Again, this is an instance for maintaining Berlin’s history without glorifying the past. Quickly realizing that none of us had really eaten that day, we headed to what seemed like heaven-on-earth: Burgermesiter. Burgermeister was a teeny tiny hole-in-the-wall joint that was under a U-Bahn terminal. With no seating area and a 40+ person line coming out of the rugged building—we knew it was going to be a good meal. After our big gooey messy burgers, we rolled over to a local pub, enjoyed a pint and then headed back to our hostel to get a good night sleep.
The following morning we were headed to the famous Mauerpark outdoor market. With thousands of vendors selling unique jewelry, waffles-on-sticks, fur coats, currywurst and everything in between, it was easy to see why Berliners love their open-air markets.
All in all it was a fantastic trip, but I am definitely happy to have some days by myself here in Paris to decompress. Whenever I leave Paris, I can’t help but feel some sort of nostalgia for the city. As I sit here in my bed trying to digest Chantal’s ‘healthy’ dessert of chocolate covered everything (bananas, strawberries, oranges etc.), I realize that yes, Paris has its flaws—but there’s nowhere else I’d rather be.

Auf Wiedersehen!


                                          Entrance to Sachsenhausen Concentration Camp

                                                                 East Side Gallery
                                                        Burgermeister

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